|
G’Day from Fletch
When I can, it gives me great
pleasure to write a contribution to the CAVOA Pentashield.
You must excuse me;
the fletchy has a lot on his plate at the moment….now
as I write it’s a salad sandwich with leg ham and mayo.
Basically, my work is taking me many
places with the corporate DVD presenting & production side of things, along
with my other voice recording work. As a result, there’s no time to scratch the
Itchybutt….
I must commend Hugh on his last
effort in the February issue regarding fuel economy.
Almost seems
comical that blokes like us write and read articles on fuel economy – then we
turn up at drag days and thrash the be-geezus out of
our Ma Mopars!
I like to make modifications so I
use more fuel. Just hold the pedal flat. It shows consistency, and it’s
less wear on the throttle cable being in the one W.O.T position. Holding the
pedal flat is interesting, especially up side streets. Yes…it’s the old theory
in reality “If it doesn’t use fuel, it aint makin power” I like what Hugh suggested too about
shutting off the engine if at the stop lights for more than 30 seconds to save
fuel….and every Mopar retail outlet would back that theory as well. Driving to
work in Sydney everyday averaging around 40 sets of lights each way…geez….just image how many starters, ring gears &
batteries you’ll go through….mmmm fuel economy?
A mate of mine years ago ran a 318 /
600 - 4 Barrel (Edelbrock of course) in an immaculate
VG sedan. He traveled from Nelson Bay into Newcastle & return everyday for
work and I remember him saying on numerous occasions that the Val was better on
go-go juice keeping it @ 100kays than if he sat on 80….so the old “sweet spot”
in the rpm range that Hugh mentioned in his article is very true.
What Hugh said, about sitting behind
the car in front to reduce drag, and “drag” only working if you’re a few inches
away is true too. In fact, if you can get close enough to the car in front,
while you’re driving, have the passenger climb out, shimmy across the bonnet,
and connect your car to the car in front using a small piece of bar. Have the
passenger climb back in (if they’re still alive) and then you switch off your donk and kick back!! Now that’s saving fuel!
Right, onto what I want to talk
about now, and that is Vehicle Restoration points because I know
everything…plus, I just like contributing to our issue.
How many times have you heard people
state “I have restored the car” – and all they have done is fit a new
exhaust extension, and paint the car an awful colour with a brush
– eh? And, it hosts an original front end from 1968! It’s amazing the
amount of people that do a resto on the cheap! Now,
don’t get me wrong, I’m no millionaire myself….I was….but now I only have $500,000
due to a divorce in 1992!
My best advice is for you to take
your time…don’t rush….just go at one steady pace.
The same goes for
your vehicle restoration too! Too many blokes cut corners to save $$$ and the
end result is never what it should be. If you haven’t the $$$ wait until you
have. It may mean the car is not registered for another 8 months (or perhaps 9
years) but believe me, do things right, spend the bucks, and your car will show
the full story every time on completion.
Graham Castle’s Town & Country
VH Ute is the latest example, after some accommodation with Ray Webb. What a
beautiful job! Imagine that done on the cheap in someone’s back yard to save a
few grand See it’s worth it…and well done to Graham for initiating the project.
Practicing what I preach is evident
with my CM – and I have another project pending with a VG Coupe that has been
sitting in my shed staring at me everyday for the past 15 months and it’s
irritating me. It makes me itch! I walk
past this thing 10 times daily to get to my office…and I pass it as I go up
into the house to make coffee.
Why haven’t I done anything? Well,
firstly it’s motivation & timing. Secondly, when you have an immaculate CM
right beside it, the comparison can be daunting especially when the CM does
everything so well. I was spoilt with the CM body. If only the VG had that
initial head start…but it doesn’t, and it will be a local sand blast job to
find out if the resto will go ahead. Hey…what about the
guys that find 1929 chassis rails in 5 feet of dam
water and end up with a vehicle?? Anything is possible I guess. Buy one or restore
one, It’s a personal thing.
If you get a body sandblasted
(preferably a car body) tell the sandblaster to start at the worst section and
if it turns to mud, have him stop and call you. Make sure that you have this
arrangement; otherwise, what you may get back is a rolling Simsmetal
floor pan. You are kidding yourself if you think you can do a better sanding
job by hand as opposed to a sand blast. A good sand blast can take a little
over an hour, and what you have left is where you start, making paint preparation
a whole lot easier for your undercoat and repairs.
My two door
VG has more rust in it than the Titanic and the way the suspension has sagged,
it sits about as low too. However there are aspects that do inspire me about
the car. I must say that I admire those wonderful rear quarters; if they were
straighter they’d be even better! I’ll have a go, there is no rush, and time
will be taken attempting to preserve another of our dying breed.
Until next time,
take care, happy restoring – and don’t let your bum crack….
Technical tip: “all
wires are installed with smoke standard….and when the smoke comes out of them –
you know they’re buggered”
Fletch.
|